Beginning way back in the 1970s the cosmetic industry began to “self regulate” itself, via the Personal Care Products Council, a trade organization whose history is much older. By standardizing ingredient names, the industry offset harsher governmental oversight. The outcome was the adoption of the international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients (INCI). This list has since grown to over 16,000 ingredients and is used by manufacturers around the world to comply with various local labeling laws and to support international trade by avoiding the confusion and costs of translating ingredients.
The international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients (INCI) is why even the simplest of product formulas now sounds like a evil scientist's brew of chemicals. In fact, most of the ingredients in today's cosmetics and skin care would be well known by other more familiar names. Tocopherol is commonly known as Vitamin E and Butyrospermum Parkii is well known by its common name – Shea Butter.
The U.S. Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, along with similar regulations in Canada and the EU, now stipulate ingredients must use the INCI to keep their names consistent and understandable universally. This allows consumers to recognize ingredients they might be sensitive or allergic to without relying on common names – which can vary. By standardizing the ingredient declaration, consumers can compare ingredients lists more confidently – even if the ingredients are more difficult to pronounce.
Some argue INCI labeling makes ingredient panels more confusing
Let's face it, most of us are not chemists, nor cosmetic formulators; so the INCI ingredients can appear intimidating. They're long chemical names that are difficult to say. But they do serve a purpose. Standardization of ingredient listings, using their INCI registered names, means that these ingredient names become universal – spanning languages and vendors preferences. It also avoids manufacturers from obscuring ingredients through proprietary names.
Ingredient panels may look more confusing but it's for our own good
So while natural products may now sound like chemical-laden cocktails; rest assured, it's generally just the scientific, INCI-registered name instead of the colloquial ingredient title. In time, the chemical terminology will likely become more familiar too.
So have no fear… when you see L-ascorbic acid on your cosmetic label, it’s simply the antioxidant Vitamin C.
For further reading:
- https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Nomenclature_of_Cosmetic_Ingredients
- http://www.cirs-reach.com/Cosmetic_Inventory/International_Nomenclature_of_Cosmetic_Ingredients_INCI.html
- http://webdictionary.personalcarecouncil.org/jsp/Home.jsp
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