Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are chemical exfoliators used in skin care to resurface the skin. They work by helping to remove the damaged outer layers of your skin that cause dullness and uneven skin tone. It’s important to remember that all AHAs have similar benefits. So, while one may cause irritation in one person, it might be perfectly fine for another.
The most common AHAs are glycolic acid, lactic acid, and ascorbic acid. Glycolic acid is the smallest AHA molecule and works best on oily and acne-prone skin types. Lactic acid is larger than glycolic acid and works well on dryer or combination skin types. Ascorbic acid is larger than both glycolic and lactic acids but still small enough to penetrate the skin’s surface layers. Ascorbic acid can be found in Vitamin C products and works well for all skin types, but especially those with sun damage or hyperpigmentation issues.
The frequency at which you use AHAs will depend on your skin type as well as the strength of the product. For example, if you have sensitive skin or rosacea then you may want to start by using a low-strength product once a week before working up to daily use over time as your tolerance builds up; whereas someone with normal or oily skin may be able to use a higher
How do AHAs work?
Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble, meaning you can use them in a moisturizer instead of having to apply them directly to your face (which can be drying). When applied topically, AHAs work by dissolving the intercellular glue that holds dead skin cells together on the surface of your skin. This loosens up the dead skin cells so they can be washed away or removed by your body’s natural exfoliation process. This makes the skin feel smoother and look more even.
AHAs also help increase cell turnover rate and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They can also help reduce pigmentation and even out skin tone by removing old, dead tissue on the surface of the skin. And the use of AHAs can lead to improved penetration of other ingredients from follow-up treatments.
How frequently should you use them?
It’s best to start out slow when using an alpha hydroxy acid product for the first time—use it once a week at first and then gradually increase frequency over time depending on your skin’s tolerance level.
Your frequency of use will depend on your skin type as well as the strength of the product. For example, if you have sensitive skin or rosacea then you may want to start by using a low-strength product once a week before working up to daily use over time as your tolerance builds up; whereas someone with normal or oily skin may be able to use a higher percentage from the start.
One final note, alpha hydroxy acids should always be used in conjunction with sunscreen during the day because they make your skin more sun sensitive. Many recommend using AHAs ideally at night – but when used with sunscreen – AHAs can be used day or night or both.
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